# Fabric and curtain terms

The terms the FabricMeasure calculators use, defined once. Figures that come from
the calculators' own data are rendered from that data rather than retyped, so a
definition here cannot contradict the tool that uses it.

Source: https://fabricmeasure.com/glossary/
Published by FabricMeasure.

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## Buying cloth

What the label on the end of the roll is telling you, and what it is quietly not.

### Roll width

*Also: Bolt width, Fabric width.*

How far the cloth reaches from one side edge to the other — the length of the tube it is wound round. It is fixed by the loom and never changes, however much you buy; the length is the part that unwinds. Because it is fixed, it decides how many pieces sit side by side, and that decides the length you have to buy.

Used by: [Fabric yardage calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/fabric-yardage-calculator/), [Cushion fabric calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/cushion-fabric-calculator/), [Fabric width converter](https://fabricmeasure.com/conversions/fabric-width-converter/).

### Nominal width

The width a cloth is sold as, which is a trade name rather than a measurement. The trade treats "54 inch" and "140 cm" as one thing; 54 inches is 137.2 cm, nearly 3 cm narrower. On a wide piece that gap decides whether it fits.

| Sold as | Actually | Usually |
| --- | --- | --- |
| 36 in / 90 cm | 91.4 cm | Quilting cottons, older dress fabrics |
| 44 in / 112 cm | 111.8 cm | Standard quilting cotton |
| 45 in / 115 cm | 114.3 cm | Dressmaking cottons, commercial patterns |
| 54 in / 137 cm | 137.2 cm | Upholstery, curtain lining |
| 55 in / 140 cm | 139.7 cm | Curtain and furnishing fabrics |
| 60 in / 150 cm | 152.4 cm | Knits, wide dress fabrics |
| 108 in / 274 cm | 274.3 cm | Wide-back quilting fabric |

Used by: [Fabric width converter](https://fabricmeasure.com/conversions/fabric-width-converter/), [Fabric width chart](https://fabricmeasure.com/charts/fabric-width-chart/).

### Selvedge

*Also: Selvage.*

The finished edge running down each side of the cloth, woven so it cannot fray. It is often stiffer than the rest, sometimes printed with the maker’s name, and usually cut away — so a roll sold as 140 cm may give less than 140 cm of usable width.

Used by: [Fabric yardage calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/fabric-yardage-calculator/), [Upholstery fabric calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/upholstery-fabric-calculator/), [Fabric width converter](https://fabricmeasure.com/conversions/fabric-width-converter/), [Cushion fabric calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/cushion-fabric-calculator/).

### Bolt

The unit a mill ships cloth in: a full length wound on a board or tube, typically 30 to 100 metres (about 35 to 110 yards). A shop cuts your piece from the bolt, so the bolt end is where the width, the composition and the pattern repeat are printed.

Used by: [Fabric width converter](https://fabricmeasure.com/conversions/fabric-width-converter/).

### Cut increment

The smallest step a counter will cut to, and it differs by market and by shop. Ask a metre counter for 2.34 m and you will be sold 2.4 m; ask a US counter for 2⅓ yards and you will be sold 2⅜, so every total on this site is rounded up to the increment you choose rather than to the nearest one.

| Cuts to | Step | Where |
| --- | --- | --- |
| Nearest 10 cm | 0.1 m | The usual cut for roll goods anywhere fabric is sold by the metre. |
| Nearest half metre | 0.5 m | Common for upholstery weights and wholesale bolts. |
| Whole metres | 1 m | Some mills and online sellers cut only in whole metres. |
| Nearest ⅛ yard | 0.125 yd | The standard cut at a US quilting counter. |
| Nearest ¼ yard | 0.25 yd | Common for general dress and home-furnishing fabrics in the US. |
| Exact requirement | - | No rounding — useful when you are cutting from fabric you already own. |

Used by: [Yards to metres](https://fabricmeasure.com/conversions/yards-to-metres/), [Metres to yards](https://fabricmeasure.com/conversions/metres-to-yards/).

## Curtains

The four measurements a workroom asks for, and the one choice that changes all of them.

### Heading

*Also: Header.*

The top of the curtain, and the way it is gathered onto whatever holds it up. The style chosen sets both how much cloth is turned down at the top and how much fullness the curtain needs before it will pleat at all.

| Style | What it is | At the top | Least fullness |
| --- | --- | --- | --- |
| Pencil pleat | Drawn up by a corded tape into narrow, even folds. The tape does the gathering rather than the pole, so it wants more cloth than any other common heading. | 15 cm | 2x |
| Pinch pleat | Folds sewn into fixed groups of two or three and pinched at the base, so the pleats stay where they were put. Formal, and cheaper in cloth than a pencil pleat. | 20 cm | 2x |
| Eyelet | Metal rings punched through a stiffened band, threaded straight onto a pole — sold as a grommet heading in the US. The pole forms the folds instead of a tape, which is why it needs less fullness — but the band is deep, so it takes the most at the top. | 25 cm | 1.8x |
| Tab top | Loops of the same cloth passed over a pole. The flattest heading here: the fabric hangs almost straight, so it needs the least of everything. | 12 cm | 1.5x |
| Wave | A corded tape at fixed spacing on a track made for it, giving one continuous even S from end to end — the US calls it ripplefold. It only works on that track — an ordinary one will not hold the spacing. | 15 cm | 2x |

Used by: [Curtain fabric calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/curtain-fabric-calculator/), [Curtain fullness calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/curtain-fullness-calculator/), [Curtain heading tape calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/curtain-heading-tape-calculator/), [Curtain heading types](https://fabricmeasure.com/charts/curtain-heading-types/).

### Fullness

How much wider the flat cloth is than the space it has to cover, as a multiple. At 2× fullness a 100 cm track takes 200 cm of flat fabric, and the extra 100 cm is what becomes the folds.

Used by: [Curtain fullness calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/curtain-fullness-calculator/), [Curtain fabric calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/curtain-fabric-calculator/), [Curtain lining calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/curtain-lining-calculator/), [Standard curtain sizes](https://fabricmeasure.com/charts/standard-curtain-sizes/).

### Drop

*Also: Finished length.*

The finished length of a curtain, measured from where it hangs to where it should stop — from the hook, ring or eyelet position, not from the pole itself. The pole sits above that point, so measuring from it makes every curtain too long.

Used by: [Curtain fabric calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/curtain-fabric-calculator/), [Roman blind fabric calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/roman-blind-fabric-calculator/), [Pattern repeat calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/pattern-repeat-calculator/), [Standard curtain sizes](https://fabricmeasure.com/charts/standard-curtain-sizes/).

### Return and overlap

The return is the bit that wraps back to the wall at each end of a track, so light does not come round the side. The overlap is where a pair crosses in the middle. Both are gathered like the rest, so both are added before fullness is applied.

Used by: [Curtain fullness calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/curtain-fullness-calculator/).

## Down the roll

Everything that decides which way a piece has to lie, and what that costs.

### Pattern repeat

*Also: Vertical repeat, Straight repeat.*

The distance up the roll from one point in the design to the identical point on the next — whatever the size of the motif itself. Every piece that has to match its neighbour must be cut to a whole number of repeats, which is why matched cloth costs more than its length suggests.

Used by: [Pattern repeat calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/pattern-repeat-calculator/), [Curtain fabric calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/curtain-fabric-calculator/), [Roman blind fabric calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/roman-blind-fabric-calculator/).

### Half-drop repeat

A repeat where the design steps down by half its height between adjacent widths instead of lining up straight across. It costs half a repeat on the job — once, not once per width, because a workroom cuts every odd width, shifts the pattern a single time, then cuts the even ones. Set the match beside the pattern repeat and the curtain, blind and pattern repeat calculators allow for it.

Used by: [Pattern repeat calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/pattern-repeat-calculator/).

### Grain, and the bias

The grain is the direction the threads run: lengthways down the roll, crossways from selvedge to selvedge. The bias is the 45° diagonal between them, which is the only direction woven cloth stretches — so strips cut on the bias go round a curve, and cost about 41% more cloth to do it.

Used by: [Cushion fabric calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/cushion-fabric-calculator/), [Bias binding calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/bias-binding-calculator/).

### Nap

A pile or a print that only works one way up — velvet, corduroy, a one-way floral. Every piece must be cut running the same direction, so pieces cannot be turned to pack them in more tightly, and the job takes more cloth.

Used by: [Fabric yardage calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/fabric-yardage-calculator/), [Fabric width converter](https://fabricmeasure.com/conversions/fabric-width-converter/), [Tablecloth fabric calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/tablecloth-fabric-calculator/).

### Railroading

Running the cloth sideways, so the roll width becomes the height of the panel rather than its width. On something wide it removes the seams entirely and usually saves fabric — but only on cloth sold as railroadable, because on most upholstery weights the strong direction runs down the roll.

Used by: [Upholstery fabric calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/upholstery-fabric-calculator/), [Upholstery yardage chart](https://fabricmeasure.com/charts/upholstery-yardage-chart/).

## Making up

The difference between the size you cut and the size you end up with.

### Seam allowance

The strip between the cut edge and the line you sew along, which ends up inside the work. It is added to every edge that will be sewn, so a piece grows by twice the allowance in each direction it is seamed.

| Allowance | Used for |
| --- | --- |
| ¼ in | Patchwork and quilting, where every seam is pieced. |
| ⅜ in | Overlocked knits and fine seams. |
| 1 cm | European patterns, bag making, home furnishing. |
| ½ in | General home sewing, US patterns for straight seams. |
| 1.5 cm | The metric dressmaking standard. |
| ⅝ in | The imperial dressmaking standard. Not the same as 1.5 cm. |
| 2 cm | Curtains, loose covers, anything that may be let out. |

Used by: [Seam allowance calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/seam-allowance-calculator/), [Seam allowance chart](https://fabricmeasure.com/charts/seam-allowance-chart/).

### Side hem

The turning down each outer edge of a finished curtain. It belongs to the two outer edges only — the joins between widths are seams, not hems — and charging one per width is the commonest way to over-order.

Used by: [Curtain fullness calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/curtain-fullness-calculator/), [Curtain fabric calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/curtain-fabric-calculator/).

### Cut length, and finished size

The cut length is what you mark on the roll; the finished size is what you have after sewing. Everything between them — hems, turnings, seam allowances, and any rounding up to a whole pattern repeat — is cloth you buy and never see.

Used by: [Seam allowance calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/seam-allowance-calculator/), [Pattern repeat calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/pattern-repeat-calculator/), [Curtain fabric calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/curtain-fabric-calculator/).

## Upholstery pieces

The trade names for the panels a chair is covered in. The upholstery calculator labels its cutting plan with these and nothing else on the site explains them, which is the gap this group closes.

### Inside back

*Also: IB.*

The panel covering the front of the chair back — the part you lean against. It runs from the top of the back down to the seat, and is cut long enough to tuck in where the back meets the deck, so the visible piece is smaller than the piece you cut.

Used by: [Upholstery fabric calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/upholstery-fabric-calculator/), [Upholstery yardage chart](https://fabricmeasure.com/charts/upholstery-yardage-chart/).

### Outside back

*Also: OB.*

The panel covering the rear of the chair, the side that faces the room or the wall. It takes no tuck-in and is usually the last piece on, closed with a blind stitch or back tacked, which is why it is smaller than the inside back on the same chair.

Used by: [Upholstery fabric calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/upholstery-fabric-calculator/), [Upholstery yardage chart](https://fabricmeasure.com/charts/upholstery-yardage-chart/).

### Seat deck

*Also: Platform, Deck.*

The flat platform the seat cushion sits on. Most of it is hidden once the cushion is in, so a trade job often makes the covered part in a cheap platform cloth and only the front strip in the main fabric — the calculator here sizes the whole deck in your fabric, which is the safe way round.

Used by: [Upholstery fabric calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/upholstery-fabric-calculator/), [Upholstery yardage chart](https://fabricmeasure.com/charts/upholstery-yardage-chart/).

### Inside arm

*Also: IA.*

The panel over the inner face of an arm and across its top roll, from the deck up and over. Like the inside back it carries a tuck-in at the seat, and a chair needs two of them.

Used by: [Upholstery fabric calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/upholstery-fabric-calculator/), [Upholstery yardage chart](https://fabricmeasure.com/charts/upholstery-yardage-chart/).

### Outside arm

*Also: OA.*

The outer face of an arm, from the top of the arm down to the base rail. Two per chair, and like the outside back it is a plain panel with nothing to tuck in.

Used by: [Upholstery fabric calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/upholstery-fabric-calculator/), [Upholstery yardage chart](https://fabricmeasure.com/charts/upholstery-yardage-chart/).

### Arm facing

*Also: Arm front, Scroll facing.*

The small panel closing the front end of an arm — the piece you see head-on as you walk towards the chair. It is often piped round its edge, and on a patterned cloth it is the piece most likely to need placing rather than simply cut.

Used by: [Upholstery fabric calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/upholstery-fabric-calculator/), [Upholstery yardage chart](https://fabricmeasure.com/charts/upholstery-yardage-chart/).

### Cushion face

The top or bottom panel of a boxed cushion. Every cushion needs two, which is why a seat cushion costs more cloth than its size suggests.

Used by: [Upholstery fabric calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/upholstery-fabric-calculator/), [Cushion fabric calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/cushion-fabric-calculator/), [Upholstery yardage chart](https://fabricmeasure.com/charts/upholstery-yardage-chart/).

### Cushion gusset

*Also: Boxing strip, Border.*

The band running right round the edge of a boxed cushion, joining the two faces and giving it its depth. Its width is the cushion depth and its length the whole perimeter, so it is longer than any other piece on the chair and is usually cut in parts and joined.

Used by: [Upholstery fabric calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/calculators/upholstery-fabric-calculator/), [Upholstery yardage chart](https://fabricmeasure.com/charts/upholstery-yardage-chart/).

## Weight

Four units for one property, three of which need context to mean anything.

### GSM

*Also: Grams per square metre, g/m².*

What a square metre of the cloth weighs. It describes the fabric itself rather than the roll, which is what makes it the one weight figure that means the same thing whoever quotes it.

| Band | Range | Typically |
| --- | --- | --- |
| Very light | under 80 g/m2 | Chiffon, organza, voile, fine lining. Sheer; needs care to sew. |
| Light | 80-120 g/m2 | Lawn, batiste, shirting, quilting cotton, dress cotton. |
| Medium | 120-200 g/m2 | Poplin, twill, jersey, linen, most dressmaking and quilting. |
| Heavy | 200-300 g/m2 | Denim, drill, curtain fabric, light upholstery, bag fabric. |
| Very heavy | 300-400 g/m2 | Upholstery weight, heavy canvas, outdoor fabric, coating. |
| Extra heavy | over 400 g/m2 | Heavy upholstery, tarpaulin, rug and carpet backing. |

Used by: [Fabric GSM calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/conversions/fabric-gsm-calculator/), [Fabric weight chart](https://fabricmeasure.com/charts/fabric-weight-chart/).

### Running yard

*Also: Linear yard.*

A yard of length off the roll, whatever the roll is wide. So a weight quoted per running yard describes the roll as much as the cloth: the same "12 oz" is a heavier fabric on a narrow roll than on a wide one.

| Unit | Short | What it tells you |
| --- | --- | --- |
| Grams per square metre | g/m² | The metric standard, and the only one that describes the cloth rather than the roll. |
| Ounces per square yard | oz/yd² | The US standard for most woven fabric. |
| Ounces per running yard | oz/yd | Used for denim and canvas. Depends on the roll width, so it says as much about the roll as the cloth. |
| Momme | mm | The silk unit: the weight in pounds of 100 yards by 45 inches. |

Used by: [Fabric GSM calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/conversions/fabric-gsm-calculator/).

### Momme

The silk trade’s weight unit: what a piece 100 yards long and 45 inches wide weighs, in pounds. One momme is about 4.34 g/m². The conversion works on anything, but nobody will know what a 12-momme cotton is.

Used by: [Fabric GSM calculator](https://fabricmeasure.com/conversions/fabric-gsm-calculator/).